Building the Supports for the 24″ Ribbon and Bow Shelf

Photo of the 24" Ribbon and Bow Shelf

24" Ribbon and Bow Shelf

In our last article, I explained how to make the pattern and cut out the back plate for the 24″ Ribbon and Bow Shelf. In this article, I’ll explain how to create the pattern and cut out the shelf support pieces. These pieces are actually easier to cut than to make the pattern so let’s get started.

The two support braces for this shelf measure 4-5/8″ wide x 4-1/2″ high and are made from a piece of 1″ x 6″ material. But before we can start cutting, we first have to construct the pattern. Take the left over piece of poster board from the back plate and using a framing square, lay out a square that measures 4-5/8″ x 4-5/8″. Don’t cut it out yet because we need to draw some arcs and it will be easier to place the compass point on the sheet while it’s still attached to the rest of the poster board.

When you have drawn the square, take a ruler and measure 4-5/32″ from the left side of the box and place a mark inside the square. Now measure down 2″ from the top of the box and place a mark. These two points will intersect at Point #1 as on the illustration below.

Illustration showing point 1 on the shelf brace

Shelf Brace Point #1

Now measure 2-3/8″ from the left side of the box and place a mark. Next measure 4-1/4″ from the top of the box and Point #2 falls at the intersection of these two points as in the illustration below.

Illustration of Point 2 on the shelf brace

Point #2 on shelf brace

Now we need to draw two circles on the square that will form the two arcs on the shelf brace. First take your compass and set the radius to 1-1/2″, place the needle at point #1, and draw a circle as show in the illustration below. I’ve drawn a full circle in the illustration, but you only have to draw the portion of the circle that falls inside the square.

Illustration showing the circle at point 1

1-1/2" circle drawn at point 1

When this circle is drawn, set the compass to a radius of 1-3/8″, set the needle at point #2, and draw a circle as illustrated below.

Illustration of the circle drawn at point 2

1-3/8" circle drawn at point #2

Now we need to shorten the left side so it matches our 4-1/2″ side measurement. Measure 4-1/2″ from the top of the square on the left side and place a mark. Take a framing square and draw a line from the left side toward the right side and stop the line where it intersects the circle at point two as illustrated below.

Illustration of the shorter left side of the shelf brace

Shorten the left side to 4-1/2"

This next step sets up the center point for the small arc that will connect the circle at point #2 with the left edge of the brace. Measure down 3-15/32″ from the top on the left side of the square and place a mark as shown in the illustration below.

Illustration of fillet center point

Beginning to establish the center point of the small arc

Now we need to draw a straight line from point #2 to the mark we just made as illustrated below.

Illustration showing line from point 2 to left side

Line drawn from point #2 to the mark on the left side

Now we need to draw another circle at point #2. Set the radius of your compass to 2-3/8″, set the needle at point #2, and draw a circle as shown in the illustration below.

Illustration of second circle at point 2

2-3/8" circle drawn at point #2

This second circle drawn at point #2 intersects the angle line drawn from point #2 to the left side. Set the radius of your compass to 1″, place the needle at this intersection point and draw a circle as show below.

Illustration showing small circle

This circle forms the arc that connects the left side to the arc at point #2

I know all these circles are beginning to get a little confusing but it will all be clear when we reach the end of the layout process. We have one more circle to draw and then we can begin cutting out the pattern. Measure 4-1/8″ from the left side at the top of the square and place a mark. Now set your compass to a radius of 1/2″, set the needle at the mark you just made, and draw a circle as illustrated below. This circle forms the arc that connects the top of the brace to the circle at point #1.

Illustration showing the last circle at the top of the brace

Small circle connecting the top of the brace to the circle at point #1

Now with these five circles drawn, it’s time to cut out the pattern. The next step is probably going to be hard but the illustration below shows exactly where to cut to get the pattern just right. If you have any problems figuring out just where to cut, print out the last two images and place the drawing of the cut lines over the top of the one with all the circles and that should help.

Illustration showing the cut line for the shelf brace

Cut out the pattern along these lines

Once the pattern is cut out, take your scissors and round the point in the center of the brace where the circle at point #1 intersects with the circle at point #2 just slightly to prevent this tip from breaking off when the braces are finished.

Now all that’s left to do is to cut out, route, and sand the two braces. Do not route the straight sides of the brace since this is where the brace attaches to the shelf back plate and the top of the shelf. Be very careful to keep your hands away from the router bit when routing these two pieces. It’s best done with a router table if you have one.

Before we wrap up this article, take a piece of 1″ x 8″ wood and cut it to exactly 24″ long. This piece is the top of the shelf so all you need to do is sand this piece smooth with your random orbital sander.

In the next article, I will describe how to cut out the ribbon for the shelf. So stay tuned and as always, thanks for stopping by.

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How to Build a Ribbon and Bow Shelf

Photo of ribbon and bow shelf

24" Ribbon and Bow Shelf

In this series of articles, I will be describing in detail how to build this 24″ Ribbon and Bow Shelf. This shelf can be built out of any suitable wood that is capable of being stained or painted. The shelf that is pictured to the left was made from 3/4″ spruce but red oak, poplar, or mahogany would work just as well depending on your budget. So let’s get to building this shelf right away.

The Back Plate
The back plate for this shelf is cut from a piece of 1″ x 8″ x 24″ material. In lumber terms, a 1″ x 8″ board is 3/4″ thick and 7-1/2″ wide. The original rough cut board from the saw mill is 1″ x 8″ and then planed down to the finished dimensions for a smooth finish.

Illustration of the back plate for the ribbon and bow shefl

Back plate for the 24" Ribbon and Bow Shelf

To create the patterns for this shelf, we will be using poster board.  Poster board can be purchased anywhere school supplies are sold and usually comes in sheets of 22″ x 28″. The patterns for all the parts of this shelf can be cut from a single sheet of poster board. Poster board usually comes with one glossy side and one matte side. When drawing on the poster board, draw on the matte side because the glossy side won’t accept pencil marks very easily.

To start the layout for the back plate, take a piece of poster board and cut it so that it measures 8″ wide, and 24″ long. Now fold this piece in half so it measures 8″ x 12″ and lay it down on a flat surface so we can do some measurements and draw some straight lines. First mark one of the 12″ sides of the pattern as the top and place the pattern so the top is oriented at the top. Using the illustration above, start at the fold of the poster board and measure down from the top 7-1/2″ down along the fold and place a mark.

Now measure 1″ from the fold and using a framing square mark a line parallel with the fold from the top to the bottom. Now draw ten more lines from the top of the pattern to the bottom spaced 1″ apart all the way to 1″ from edge opposite the fold. Starting at the fold, number each of these line 1 through 11. When finished, you will have a pattern folded in half with 11 parallel lines running from top to bottom 1″ apart on the face of the pattern as illustrated below.

Illustration of back pattern with lines drawn

Back pattern with line 1" apart

At the fold, measure down from the top 7-1/2″ and place a mark. Now go to each line from the fold to the opposite edge and mark the following measurements from the top. #1…7-15/32″, #2…7-11/32″, #3…7-5/32″, #4…6-7/8″, #5….6-17/32″, #6…6-5/32″, #7…6″, #8…6-1/16″, #9…6-3/8″, #10…6-25/32″, #11…6″. Now at the edge opposite the fold, measure down from the top 6″ and place a mark.

Now what we are going to do is simply connect the dots along the bottom of the pattern to create the contour of the bottom of the back plate. The easiest way to do this is to take your pencil and smoothly form a slight curve between the points so that your pattern looks like the back plate illustration above. Craft stores sell a flexible drawing tool that can be curved to the shape of the dots if you don’t feel comfortable drawing it freehand. If you have one of the tools, just lay it out on the pattern and bend it’s shape to match the points along the bottom of the pattern and trace along the tool from point to point.

When your pattern is drawn, take eight pieces of scotch tape and tape the two layers of the pattern together using four pieces along the top and four along the bottom of the pattern. It is essential that you not let the two layers of the pattern slip when cutting out the pattern. Now take a pair of scissors and cut through both layers of the folded pattern along the line that you just drew.

When your pattern is cut completely, take a small paring knife and cut the tape along the top and bottom of the pattern. Now unfold the pattern and you have a complete pattern for the back plate that is 24″ long and is a perfect mirror image of itself.

When you are satisfied with your pattern, with a miter saw, cut a piece of 1″ x 8″ to exactly 24″ long. Now place the pattern on top of the piece of wood. Next take some blue painter’s tape or masking tape and tape the pattern along the top and both ends of the board. Do not put tape along the bottom edge as it will get in the way of tracing the pattern onto the board. Now draw along the bottom edge of the pattern while holding the pattern down against the board with your other hand. Take it slow and easy and don’t push too hard against the pattern which will cause it to slip.

Once you have traced the pattern onto your board, you are ready to cut it out. The only cut that is necessary is along the bottom edge if the board is square on both ends. A jig saw, or somtimes called a sabre saw, is the easiest saw to use to make this cut. However, before you start the cut, we will drill some holes along the bottom of the board to make turning the jig saw easier at the turning points. Take your drill and place a 3/8″ drill bit in the chuck. Now measure down from the point at the bottom edge where line #10 intersects the bottom of the pattern 3/16″ and place a mark. This will place the center of the hole just far enough below the pattern mark so that the edge of the hole intersects the edge of the pattern at that point. Now drill a hole at this point, making sure to hold the drill perpendicular to the surface of the board so the hole goes straight through. Do this at the same point on the other end of the board where line #10 intersects the edge of the pattern.

When the holes are drilled, take your jig saw and start cutting the board on either end being very careful to keep the blade just on the outside edge of the line. If you have a good quality belt sander, you can even leave about 1/16″ of material outside the line and then sand to the line for a nice clean edge. When you reach the first hole you drilled, you can very easily turn the jig saw in this hole and keep cutting along the line. Without this hole, making this turn would be very difficult. Do the same thing at the last hole and continue cutting all the way to the other end.

When the back plate is completely cut out, use your belt sander and clean up the cut making sure you remove all the saw marks from the edge. It should not be necessary to sand the top edge since this is a factory edge. Depending on how sharp your miter saw blade is, you may not even need to sand the end cuts until after you have routed the edges.

The last operation to the back plate is to route the bottom edge and the two ends. Do not route the top edge. Place a 1/2″ round-over router bit in your router and set the bit so that only the curved portion of the bit is below the router surface. All we want to do here is round over the edge, not form an ogee. Now route along the bottom edge and the two ends of the back plate.

When the routing is done, take your random orbital sander and sand the entire back plate so it has a nice smooth feel. Wipe the dust off of the back plate and you are ready to move to the next part of the shelf.

In the next article, we will be cutting out the two support braces for the shelf. See you in the next article. As always, thanks for stopping by.

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Welcome to MVB Crafts

We want to welcome you to the Most Valuable Bundle of Crafts in one place. At MVB Crafts, we are planning some exciting articles for you. In the coming months, we will be posting articles about woodworking, metalworking, cabinetry, carpentry, pottery, ceramics, glass, cloth, flowers, and a host of other subjects.

Our mission here at MVB Crafts is to present you with all the information you need to build just about anything you want to make. Our articles will be detailed enough that you can follow along and create the craft that you’ve always dreamed of.

So please bookmark this site and come back often and as always, thanks for stopping by.

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